The Nose Knows: Appreciating Whisky

“When I’m having breakfast in the morning, I’ll pick up my apple juice and nose it before I drink it–it just becomes a habit,” says Sam Simmons, the Balvenie Global Ambassador.

Sam, a.k.a. Doctor Whisky,  is talking at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society in Leith, Edinburgh, to a small group of Canadian chefs, journalists and Balvenie folks. He wants us to really start paying attention to the smells of things in our daily lives, so we can develop our noses. “If you pick up and sniff an orange, say ‘orange’ three times, to help train your brain,” says Sam.

We’re with Sam for a whisky appreciation primer: His lessons won’t be wasted on me: until this evening, most of my experience was picked up at 50-pence Whisky Wednesdays, at some Glasgow hip-hop bar I used to go to as a student in the 1990s. There’s a hole in my stomach to prove it.

Before us small glasses are lined up, each filled with one of the different whiskies that make up Balvenie’s signature blend. Sam advises us to look first at the colour of the liquid. A yellowish tinge means the spirit was finished in an American oak barrel; a darker amber colour points to European oak. Why does this matter? Seventy percent of the flavour comes from the barrel in which the whisky was matured. Retired bourbon casks lend very different qualities to those that once held sherry or rum.

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How to Make the Perfect Burger

Check out the big, fat, juicy moose burger on the cover of Reader’s Digest this month.

And pass the partridgeberry ketchup!

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The Singhampton Project

In a celebration of food, art and nature, Ontario chef-farmer Michael Stadtlander (left) recently joined forces with Parisian landscape artist Jean Paul Ganem (right) to create the Singhampton Project.

The duo have planted seven gardens in the forests, meadows and hills of Eigensinn Farm, each with a cooking and dining area. Between August 10 and 26 this summer, guests can have a seven-course feast on the property, eating one dish in each garden. Chef Stadtlander will accompany them on their adventure, preparing and serving up courses inspired by each garden.


While it’s still spring, and it’ll take a few months for these gardens to mature,  I got a good sense of how unique this dining experience is going to be on a recent trip to Eigensinn Farm.

Among my favourite installation gardens were the infinity-symbol-shaped “Salad Bar.” There, the chef will snip micro greens growing on-site as the guests settle around the table. He’ll take raspberries from the bushes on the garden’s perimeter to use in his vinaigrette. These elements will serve as a bed for the mini cheese grillers that diners will enjoy in this peaceful spot, where birdsong is the soothing soundtrack and fields and trees are the gorgeous backdrop.

I was also intrigued by a barren field, in which vivid green circles of sweet grasses, clover and English rye will lure free-roaming sheep and cattle, rather like catnip does cats. The animals will congregate where the pasture tastes best–in those perfect circles–while the humans who arrive to dine on spit-roasted meat will also be seated in a ring.

In the The Tipi Field native species such as corn, beans and squash will thrive in rows emanating from a giant tipi, which was created as a Montessori school project. Smaller tipis will serve as climbing structures.

And in The Chef’s Garden the tables will be turned: Stadtlander has designed a garden featuring peppers, tomatoes, onions and garlic that he will tend to honour Ganem, the man who designed all six of the rest. With these ingredients, the Tunisian-born designer’s favourite dish, Makbouba (a cold cooked vegetable salad), will be cooked up. A circle of trees will delineate the space, and once this event is over, they will continue to grow as a reminder of the magic he created here in the summer of 2012.

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For more information and to make reservations, call 519-922-3128.

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Chai-spiced Creme Brulee

The Pan Pacific Vancouver is a waterfront hotel that looks a lot like a cruise ship anchored in the harbour. I was lucky enough to spend a few nights there recently, and I would sleep with the curtains open at night, so that I could wake up to the sun’s first rays illuminating the mountains and Stanley Park across the water. Magical!

While staying there, I got a sneak peek behind the scenes as Executive Sous-chef Stefan Maenner worked on a wedding menu tasting. The bride- and groom-to-be sat out in the dining room with one set of parents, sampling the dishes designed to woo them.

Each course was pretty spectacular–a reflection of the collaborative efforts and diverse culinary backgrounds of 37 sous-chefs from around the world–but the dessert, a chai-spiced creme brulee, would have been the clincher for me.  Its silky custard was softly perfumed with cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg and clove, then topped by a veneer of caramel that shattered satisfyingly with the tap of a metal spoon. Continue reading

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Meet the Gang

I feel lucky to work with such a talented bunch of freelancers on the food section for Reader’s Digest. As well as inspiring us with their stories, tasty dishes and tantalizing images, they have lots of other cool projects on the go. Here’s a taster from some of our most recent contributors:

Cordon Bleu chef Voula Halliday, who most recently wrote for us about cooking en papillote, now makes regular appearances on CBC’s Steven and Chris. Her goal: to help Canadians cut waste and stretch their food dollars.

Voula Halliday; photo: Edward Pond

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Wild Food

When I was a little girl, my aunt Rosemary would drive my siblings and me out into the countryside near Edinburgh, the trunk of the car loaded up with plastic pails. Honey the Golden Retriever would be riding shotgun, his head out the window and his yellow fur flowing back from his face, as if he were a 1950s movie star with his own wind machine. We sang Cliff Richard’s “Summer Holiday” and Kay Starr’s “Rock and Roll Waltz” at the top of our lungs along the way, before getting out to find bramble (blackberry) bushes on country lanes and start filling up those big containers with ripe fruit.

My brothers and sister and I had a pick-one-eat-two policy, so it took hours and hours to get the job done. But by late afternoon, we’d be loading up the car with berries, then piling into the back to go home, my little brother crushed onto my teen sister’s lap, our fingers, mouths and clothes stained purple with juices.

The next week, when we visited Rosemary, we’d be sent home with jars of her deliciously tart homemade bramble jam or jelly–excellent on hot buttered toast. From that afternoon of foraging, there would be enough for all the extended family, and most likely many of my aunt’s friends and neighbours too. Not only did we have a lot of fun, we gathered enough fruit to make a whole bunch of people happy, and all for free. Continue reading

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Bob Blumer’s Karaage (Japanese Fried Chicken Nuggets)

In World’s Weirdest Restaurants (premiering on the Food Network tonight), Bob Blumer travels the globe in search of crazy dining experiences–everything from sitting down to dinner, buck naked, with nudists at a New York art gallery to eating curry from a mini toilet bowl in a Taiwanese restaurant.

I met Blumer last week in Toronto to learn a beautifully simple recipe he developed after visiting an izakaya just outside Tokyo, where monkeys bring patrons their beer. “They’ll bring napkins too, if you ask them, but sometimes they’ll put them in their mouth on the way over,” recalls Blumer.

Photo: The Food Network

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Au Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack

Toronto got lucky this month–it’s nearly maple-syrup season, but Quebec Chef Martin Picard left behind his sap-engorged trees, his fattening pigs and his part-time kitchen in the woods to come launch his new book, Au Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack.

The massive tome features 100 recipes–from the two-ingredient one for hard maple candy to the five-pager for pig’s head and lobster–as well as a short story and artwork by Marc Seguin, some crazy photographs (think: bikinied pole dancer in lumberjack shirt keeping company with swines), and an in-depth academic chapter on maple syrup–with cartoon-bubble quips by Picard’s Uncle Marc to put the hard stuff into layman’s terms.

At Biff’s restaurant, just by St Lawrence Market, Picard meets with me to talk about father-son moose hunts, maple syrup baths and giving his favourite ladies in the restaurant business a night to remember.

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Martin Picard’s Sugar Shack Chocolate Bars

It took four days, eight bottles of maple syrup, and close to a pound and a half of chocolate to make these crazy-decadent Martin Picard creations. Yield: 6 bars.

Was it all worth it?

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Caramel Sauce

A sweet essential for Martin Picard’s sugar shack chocolate bars.

100 mL (6 & 1/2 tbsp) 35% cream
250 mL (1 cup) maple syrup
40 g (2 tbsp) glucose syrup

1. Heat the cream in a small saucepan over low heat. Keep warm.

2. In another large saucepan over medium heat, boil the maple and glucose syrups until the mixture reaches 132 C (270 F). Off the heat, pour the hot cream into the syrup mixture. Whisk well. If any caramel lumps remain, heat the mixture over low heat for a few seconds, whisking constantly.

3. Pour the caramel into a container and refrigerate until it thickens.

(The caramel should remain soft enough to be transferred to and squeezed from a parchment paper cone.)

From Au Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack, by Martin Picard

(My note: I got this right on the second attempt. My first batch turned into maple butter. I think that it’s important not to overwhisk the mix.)

 

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